http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/230/octopuswhatwhatwz0.jpg I got this from my father and he has no idea what it is. I'd like to know about it to see if I can make a cutting.
Look up Philodendron bipinnatifidum Schott ex Endl, often sold as "Philodendron selloum". This common philodendron (known universally but incorrectly as Philodendron selloum) is used as a landscape plant through the southern half of Florida. You can often buy it at discount stores. Even though this Philodendron, a native of the rain forests of Southern Brazil down to Paraguay, is a great patio plant it is a rain forest inhabitant and will not tolerate freezes. It is often grown as a houseplant but it can grow quite large! Both the names Philodendron bipinnatifidum and Philodendron selloum were accepted scientifically until 1990 when botanist Simon Mayo of the Royal Botanic Garden Kew in England documented both "species" were actually a single species. The two had been differentiated previously since they had slightly different growth forms. Differences in growth form (leaf shape) often causes confusion, especially among non-scientists. Think of it this way: there are many "growth forms" of human beings but only one species. Just because an individual has a larger body, smaller head, very thin legs, or is of a different race or skin color does not mean they are a different "species"! Some have a difficult time accepting the concept when it comes to plants. P. bippinatifidum grows best in fertile, moist, well drained, soil. But it will grow in just about any kind of soil! The native soil around Miami is poor. It is composed mostly of beach sand with very little soil. We once had over 50 of these large plants in two beds in front of our home near the ocean. They reached a height of well over 7 feet and were useful to totally hide our car when it was parked in the circular drive. The species is considered a "self header" which simply means it can support itself and does not require a tree to climb for support. As a result, P bippinatifidum is a member of Philodendron subgenus Meconostigma. Members of that subgenus compose the group known to growers as "self headers". P. bippinatifidum can be an epiphytic form and does climb trees in the native habitat. It is simply that landscapers don't often plant the species near trees and allow it to climb! It can be started from cuttings. Just make sure you have a good amount of "air roots" above the point where you cut the plant. You will also likely find new "pups" starting around the base at some point in the future. If you are new to Philodendron sp. this link will help you get started: http://www.exoticrainforest.com/Grow or Growing Philodendrons.html This one is easy to grow. Enjoy.
Philodendron. Evidently the current scientific name is P. bipinnatifidum, the former name P. selloum. http://www.floridata.com/ref/P/phil_bip.cfm I removed quite a mass of these plants from my yard before and just after the 2004 hurricanes. Each colony was at least 6 feet tall and both were at least 20 feet long. Unfortunately, the colony next to the house was basically in a choice area for perennials, palms, smaller shrubbery--anything BUT giant philodendrons. Each colony was steadily gobbling up more yard, too. Lately, I found old philodendron roots near the kitchen, indicating that they'd once been there, too. Much more tractable in pots, of course! I suspect it might be possible to cut the stem and replant the top, or expect a new shoot from somewhere around the base. My big ones would certainly have regrown had enough stem been left. But I have no experience with these plants in an indoor setting.
Thanks a lot for all the very informative information! I've been looking at various species of philodendron and what seems the most interesting thing about mine is the stem is very different and interesting from some others I've looked at online. In the picture I posted, the stem was masked by the leaves. Here is one I found: http://www.aroid.org/genera/Philodendron/bipinnatifidum/FPG13030333.jpg I'm really surprised at the hardiness of this plant! It survives perfectly well as a house plant up here in Wisconsin, but seems to be found more common in Southern areas like Hawaii and Florida. It makes a cutting seem more plausible.
What makes the base of the plant unusual is the fact it is a member of section Meconostigma. What you are seeing is the place where all the leaves that have died earlier were removed. That group is capable of supporting itself as it rises unlike many other Philodendron species. The majority are either epiphytic or hemiepiphtic which basically means they climb a tree or anything else they grow near. The "self headers" can grow quite tall with no support. And you are absolutely correct, this one is a tough species. You almost have to try to kill it! I once read a case of a botany student who observed one being left with zero care in an apartment window for 7 months before it died. He noted it was obvious the plant received no water or care at all, yet survived until it was finally put on the curb for the trash people to collect. I certainly do not recommend anyone do that to their plents, but if you absolutelymust be away for a few weeks that one is highly likely to still be in about the condition as your left it once you return. I'm sure it will be thirsty, but otherwise would recover quickly.
Can you possibly give me some more hints in propagating this plant? All the stalks branch out from the very top of the stem and I'm not sure how to do a stem cutting successfully without severing all the leaves from the original. One website I looked at simply listed that it was possible to propagate through a leaf cutting but I've only seen that once. It seems like it would be difficult for a plant to root a leaf that is so very large. Another thing to note, my plant has a new leaf shoot thats growing at the top - it sorta looks like a corn husk. Possibly this could be used? Or would this be too stressful for a new stalk? (Please excuse my inexperience. I'm a neophyte in the exciting new world of plants!)
Growing Philodendron sp. from a leaf cutting is a major undertaking. Technically, it is called tissue culture. There are fair sized labs in central Florida and other locations that grow the genus (some of them) from leaf tip cuttings. But it takes very experienced people and major expense to do. Some of the rarer forms of Philodendron sp. in nature are now quite cheap and easy to buy due to the process. Two which you can find on eBay for just a few dollars are Philodendron gloriosum and Philodendron mamei. Up until 6 or 7 years ago either plant would bring $50 easily. Unless you are experienced and trained in the technique, you would be quite lucky to succeed. But if you are determined, you can find articles on the net explaining how it is done. Get out your wallet! As for what is coming out the the top, you are seeing either the beginning of a spathe and spadix or the cataphyls of the plant. The cataphyls is probably best described as a "sheath" that surrounds new leaf blades as they begin to develop. The spathe and spadix are the reproductive parts of the plant. If you have a spathe you'll eventually notice what appears to be a "flower". In reality, what you are seeing is an inflorescence. The flowers are formed along the spadix which is formed at the center of the spathe. A spadix is sometimes described as an elongated pine cone. The inflorescence is not a flower. Post a photo and I'll try to tell you what is happening. If you were lucky enough to have a spadix develop, and an insect that was capable of moving the pollen from another plant of the species to this one just happened to be present, you could grow seed berries. Those small berries form up and down the spadix. Inside are the actual seeds of the plant. In nature, birds eat these and carry them away in their droppings. The dropping contains just enough moisture and nutrient to give the seed a chance at survival. You can buy the seeds cheaply on eBay but they are normally sold under the old name, Philodendron selloum. Old names die hard! Without getting highly technical, you are unlikely to grow any seed berries. Does happen, so perhaps you'll get lucky. But Philodendron species have both female and male flowers on the spadix. These are separated by a sterile band on the spadix and the plants are cleverly designed to prevent self pollination. Purely survival of the fittest. Now, this is a fairly complicated process, but if you are truly interested I've posted a description on the web of how Anthurium sp. do it. The process is quite similar. You can read that if you choose, but be prepared. It is lengthy and fully illustrated. My work was contributed to and reviewed by aroid botanist Dr. Tom Croat of the Missouri Botanical Garden and several other noted "aroiders", so I believe you'll find it scientifically sound: http://www.exoticrainforest.com/Anthurium regale spathe pc.html As for your potential cutting, with self heading species, you have little choice other than to just lop off the top and stick it in soil. Not pretty! But, in a few months you'll have new leaves form on the old base and a totally new plant as well. This species is tough! Be prepared, thee things can get enormous! If you elect to do it just be prepared to give both plants a lot of room. Both plants are perfectly capable of growing 8 feet tall and of equal width! But who knows. Maybe you'll turn out to be another aroider! There are a bunch of us in the US, Europe, South America, South Eastern Asia, and Australia. There is a board on the web devoted to nuts like me who are inteested in aroids. If you're interested, drop me a not privately. It is addictive! Just ask my wife! I went so far as to build a "rain forest" just out my kitchen door in NW Arkansas.
Thanks for all your information! This forum is just great. I think I definetly want to try a stem cutting that you recommended, but now it's just a matter of convincing my girlfriend to commit to this little project! She doesn't have much courage when it comes to these matters - her plants are her babies! Your link about aroids was fascinating. The aroid blooms are very beautiful. I got to see something similar (and i'm guessing is one!) called a Corpse Flower that bloomed at my university at UW - Madison. Now THAT was an oder that there was no mistaking that it was there! So if it ever blooms, can you collect the pollen during the 2nd phase and save it in a vial in the freezer to pollinate for the next time it exposes itself?
The plant at your university was most likely Amorphophallus titanum. Many call it the corpse flower, however other plants from that genus also use that common name. Once extremely rare, that aroid is now displayed by quite a few botanical gardens. Fairchild Tropical Garden in Miami has several they call Mr. Stinky and one blooms almost every year. The blooms are enormous, colorful, and stink to high heaven! But, they draw major crowds. As for collecting and freezing pollen, it sounds as though you may have read my study on Anthurium regale. If not, do so before you attempt to do this. And, yes, it can be done. Once the spadix develops you will eventually notice droplets of liquid forming near the bottom. The liquid often contains pheromones to attract insects and you may be able to detect a slightly sweet scent. That liquid is produced by the tiny female flowers. Within a week or two following that event the male flowers will begin to produce pollen. You'll need a good magnifying glass to observe this event but the pollen will look something like cotton clinging to the spadix. Take a test tube you can seal tightly and add some desiccant (moisture absorbing material) to the tube. Using a fine camel hair brush you can work the pollen into the test tube. Work slowly, the stuff will fly! Keep it in the refrigerator during the several days you will be collecting. Once the event is done, label the tube with the date collected and store it in the freezer. Do not open it until you are ready to pollinate the next spadix. It will last for up to one year. Don't expect to collect a lot. If you can capture 1/8th inch in that tube you have done quite well. The next time the plant produces a spathe and spadix watch carefully for the spadix to begin producing that liquid from the female flowers again. Once the female flowers produce the liquid the spadix is receptive. When that event begins, take your pollen from the freezer and bring it slowly to room temperature. Use a new camel hair brush and "paint" the pollen up and down the spadix. A little pollen goes a long way! Repeat this daily until the spadix stops producing liquid. With any luck, you will have just completed the work of an insect and you may just grow some seed berries. They will take several additional months to grow. Do not try to collect the berries until they begin to fall from the spadix naturally. Then they are safe to collect. Crush each berry and spread the contents on the surface of some good, well draining potting soil similar to the mix I described earlier. Don't try to bury the seeds. Just a fraction of an inch of soil over the seeds is ample. Again, with a bit of luck, in about two weeks you should begin to see baby plants. Keep the soil damp, but don't drown the plants. Now, unless you want to start a nursery don't try to plant them all! Each berry will contain a couple of seeds so a few berries will grow more plants than you will eventually have room. The process is slow and will take several years to produce a plant with any size. Seven or eight inches of growth in a year is excellent. But many growers, especially in Europe and SE Asia love to do it. I receive email almost daily from someone in one of those regions of the world asking for seeds of Philodendron and Anthurium sp.! I rarely have any to offer. Good luck. See, I told you. You're about to become an aroider!
Just in case I've peaked your interest in learning more about aroids, you might enjoy joining the International Aroid Society. There are thousands of species and the one you have is not one of the most interesting varieties. Many are quite stunning and rare. Membership is quite inexpensive and you receive a lot for your nominal annual payment. Here's a link with information: http://www.exoticrainforest.com/Join IAS.html And here is a link to the International Aroid Society website: http://www.aroid.org/ We have a discussion board devoted stictly to aroids and you are welcome to use it even if you elect not to join the IAS. That invitation is open to anyone! Members will gladly answer your questions and contributors include some of the world's top aroid botanists. Drop me a private note and I'll give you the web address.
