Dwarf Meyer Lemon tree

Discussion in 'Citrus' started by 8675309Jenny, Mar 11, 2009.

  1. 8675309Jenny

    8675309Jenny Member

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    I don't know much about these and I am hoping that someone can look at this and tell me maybe how old this tree is (looks) and how long it will take to produce. I was told this seedling was 2-3 years old when I got it, however, it is only about 15" tall. I have had it for about 8 months and it really hasn't done anything until lately. You can see in the picture that the leaves on the left side are a lighter green. That's brand new growth. The darker leaves are kind of thick, maybe I should call them tough, however, they look healthy to me...I think? I am keeping the tree indoors for the winter. We had 80 degree temps the other day so I stuck it outside and it really seemed to grow and love it just in 1 day! I did prune 2 12" branches off that were growing straight out each side. They did grow very quickly (a couple weeks) so I think I have a healthy plant. I guess the reason I am posting is I just thought that this tree should be larger by now and maybe even producing lemons. I really haven't done anything special. It has a eastern veiw of the sun and only gets direct light for a few hours a day while it's indoors. Could that have stunted it's ability to grow? Also something I have been doing (I am in zone 7) is misting it regularly. It does seem to like that.

    any special advice from anyone?
     

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  2. Millet

    Millet Well-Known Member 10 Years

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    First of all if your "Meyer Lemon" was started from a seed, your tree is NOT a Meyer Lemon. Meyer Lemons are one of the very few citrus varieties that do not grow true to type from seed. True Meyer Lemons are a cross between a sweet orange and a lemon. Depending on what the variety of citrus was that pollinated the mother tree, your "Meyer Lemon" could be anything. Judging on the suspected parentage of your tree (Lemon and Orange plus a pollinator citrus variety) it could take between 8 to 15 years (or longer) before your tree begins to bloom and fruit. Normally, fruit produced by zygote embryo are inferior, but can also produce an exceptional type of fruit. - Millet (1,410-)
     
  3. Silverfox

    Silverfox Member

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    See the below photo and you will see an Improved Meyer Lemon in only its upcoming 4th year of growth in a 20 gal. container with over 50 lemons at various stages of size and blooms still sprouting. Of course this is a grafted tree versus what you have for comparison sake. The photo was taken two weeks ago.

    Regards
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2009
  4. Millet

    Millet Well-Known Member 10 Years

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    A grafted Meyer lemon can sometimes produce fruit in the first year, but almost always in the second year, because it is a mature tree on day one. A seedling "Meyer" has a long road to go before maturity. - Millet (1,410-)
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2009
  5. 8675309Jenny

    8675309Jenny Member

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    I knew something wasn't right. Well at least it is healthy! I appreciate the comments I knew I came to the right place to get an answer!

    Thank you!
     
  6. Silverfox

    Silverfox Member

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    test
     

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  7. 8675309Jenny

    8675309Jenny Member

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    That's a nice one!
     
  8. LPN

    LPN Well-Known Member 10 Years

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    I'd be a little concerned about the weight of the fruit on a small diameter trunk/stem such as that.
    It does appear to be staked but I wonder what could be done to bulk up the tree's branching to help support the fruit load?

    Cheers, LPN (Barrie).
     
  9. K Baron

    K Baron Well-Known Member

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    I may be off my rocker, but at some point I would prune back the lengthy branches for a more compact shape, to aid support, but you may forgo a few fruit sets as a result... which I could live with, in place of the health of your lemon plant...
     
  10. Millet

    Millet Well-Known Member 10 Years

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    In response to Barrie's remark, concerning the thin diameter of the Meyer Lemon's tree's trunk (shown above), causing the tree to require a support stake to hold it erect, the following recommendations will avoid any need of ever staking of a tree. How nature develops strong thick tree trunks, is by both wind and the growth of lower branches. Wind causes the tree to flick back and forth in resistance to the wind's force. This movement develops strong thick trunks. Further, allowing the lower branches to remain on a young tree for the first 1-1/2 to 2 years also greatly aids in the development of thick firm trunks. After, the initial development of the trunk, the lower branches can be removed. Young trees should be placed in the wind starting at a height of 2 inches. If a tree is indoors, or inside a greenhouse, the wind can be supplied by a fan. A properly grown tree, should never require any type of support. Citrus trees are heavy feeders, requiring a lot of nutrition to develop a dense canopy of foliage, something in the order of 300 PPM nitrogen, at a very minimum of once a month (twice a month is MUCH better). The USDA's Citrus Clonal Protection Program (CCPP) at the University of California at Riverside, fertilize their containerized citrus trees at 300 PPM nitrogen at EVERY SINGLE watering. I also fertilize all my container trees at the same rate. - Millet (1,408-)
     
  11. K Baron

    K Baron Well-Known Member

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    Hi Silverfox... if you take away the support of your Meyer lemon now, and expect it to withstand the elements, namely wind, you may find that the tree will snap and you will not be pleased with the end result. The pruning could wait, if you decide to remove the fruits however then prune away... then the issue of weight bearing branches are not an issue. You have excellent advice for the nutritional care of your plant. Happy Garden days ahead for you and your Meyer Lemon!
     
  12. Millet

    Millet Well-Known Member 10 Years

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    KBaron is advice concerning removing the trunks support is correct. For Silverfox's Meyer Lemon tree, it is too late to remove the support stake. To avoid the need for artificial support, the trunk strengthening procedures should begin early (2 inches) in the life of the tree. - Millet (1,408-)
     
  13. Silverfox

    Silverfox Member

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    I agree with you all on the weight of the fruit on the existing limbs. I just purchased this tree 2 months ago from a wholesaler that grows citrus here in Texas and supplys the retail nursery trade. It was in a 10 gallon nursery type container and I transplanted it in the 25 gallon shown.

    I do intend to re-stake the tree & do some thinning of the fruit. At this present time the tree is doing its I assume normal thing by shedding alot of just bloomed fruit and also hopefully just going thru a normal WLD of dropping some of its larger leaves.

    Hopefully I can restake & remove the excessive fruit to 2 or three on each branch and do a little pruning.

    This is the first Meyer Lemon I have attempted to grow in a container. I have in the ground Owari & Miho satsumas and an Algerian Clementine in a 25 gallon container.

    Can anyone suggest a liquid soluble nitrogen fertilizer to use on a frequent basis on container grown plants such as this meyer lemon?

    I have already fertilized the meyer with Osmocote but have not done any straight nitrogen feeding as Millet suggests.

    Most of you experienced old-timers have probably seen this article & I dont know if it is all correct but seems to be fairly informative concerning the use of fertilizers on citrus and the results:

    http://www.agnet.org/library/bc/52006/

    Regards & Thanks for all the replys !
     
  14. Millet

    Millet Well-Known Member 10 Years

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    I'm not recommending a straight nitrogen feeding. When fertilizer rates are given in Parts Per Million (PPM) it is customary to only consider the element nitrogen. You should fertilize a citrus tree with a complete NPK fertilizer that also contains trace minerals. Something as close to the ration of 5-1-3 that you can find. (5-1-3 is not the formula, it's the ratio of elements). - Millet (1,406-)
     
  15. Silverfox

    Silverfox Member

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    The Osomocote I used was the outdoor & indoor 19-6-12. It doesnt mention any trace minerals on the label but I do have some Epson salt I could use if you feel it is beneficiary as a supplement. The Osomocote Plus that does depict trace mineral elements on its label is hard to find around here anymore.

    In reference to your above quote: [ The USDA's Citrus Clonal Protection Program (CCPP) at the University of California at Riverside, fertilize their containerized citrus trees at 300 PPM nitrogen at EVERY SINGLE watering. I also fertilize all my container trees at the same rate. - Millet (1,408-)

    If you dont mind sharing data what specific product do you use ?


    Regards
     
  16. Millet

    Millet Well-Known Member 10 Years

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    19-6-12 Osmocote slow release fertilizer is a very common formulation. For citrus it is not a bad formulation to use if you can also supply the trace elements. There are trace element packages for sale at some of the larger garden centers. I use Jack's water soluble 25-5-15 with trace elements. I also add magnesium sulfate (Epsom Salts) at 10 percent by weight of the amount of fertilizer. Jacks is the new name for the old Peters brand fertilizers. I believe 25-5-15 w/TM is only sold in 25-lb. bags. An excellent fertilizer program is a combination of slow release fertilizer along with water soluble fertilizers. - Millet (1,406-)
     
  17. Silverfox

    Silverfox Member

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    Thanks, Millet for the info. It is very much appreciated.

    Regards
     

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