Acer Palmatum

Discussion in 'Maples' started by Arthur, Jun 9, 2006.

  1. Arthur

    Arthur Member

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    My Acer Palmatum 'Beni Otake' planted in large pot changed purple leaves into rich green early summer. Again, colour change starting already now. What could be the reason and what can I do to maintain purple colour?
     
  2. Laurie

    Laurie Active Member Maple Society 10 Years

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    According to comments made in the Maple Photo Gallery, 'Beni otake' tolerates full sun and holds its color well: http://www.botanicalgarden.ubc.ca/forums/showthread.php?t=2036. Many of the red cultivars fade towards green during the summer, but 'Beni otake' does hold its red color for some. Therefore, I would move it when it is dormant this fall to a spot in full sun, or if it is in a pot, move it to full sun now, and it should return to a redder shade.
     
  3. schusch

    schusch Active Member Maple Society 10 Years

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    Hi, Arthur-

    I have a Beni Otake that gets (too) many hours of sun a day. It is also turning green by now. There are some cultivars that maintain their red color longer - amongst my trees, there is 'Fireglow' (still entirely red), Tamuke yama (a dissectum) - there are a few others.
    More sun can help some trees to keep their red longer, but too much sun will burn them - so...
    Schusch
     
  4. Arthur

    Arthur Member

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    Hi Schusch
    my tree has morning sun till about 13.00 then it is in the shade of the building.
    What now really has me worried, however, is that the tips of it's (red-green) leaves all started curling and turning brown, like scorched. Water however is not the problem.
    Could this indicate verticillium infection? What do you recommend as counter measures?
    Thank you and regards
    Arthur
     
  5. schusch

    schusch Active Member Maple Society 10 Years

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    Hi, Arthur - nothing necessarily unusual here, either. It's not just the sun that has this effect, but also hot, and dry winds, for instance, so even if it gets afternoon shade, if you have high temperatures, you can get brown tips. I have brown tips on a number of my red leaved maples, especially those that got sun after 11 or 12 noon, and especially those in pots. If you say water is not the problem, I assume you give it the right (!) amount of water, meaning you keep the soil moist (cool) but not wet. For me that means watering about every 3-4 days in larger pots if it is warm outside. I take it the soil mix has good drainage and aeration - this issue is discussed in a few recent, as well as earlier threads on this forum. This is an important issue in container planting, worthwhile investigating.

    My Beni Otake has the most leafburn this year of all my maples, including a maple that gets afternoon sun, and should be moved. It's in a pot. This tree was all green when I got it in late fall: I took this to mean it was kept shaded in the nursery, may be it needs a period of adaptation. One question is really whether the tree adapts a little, meaning that it gets slightly more resilient - within reason, of course. Some people have talked about this. May be they'll jump in.

    Countermeasures: more shade, dappled shade, may be plant, or put another tree close by to provide more shade - or, since it is in a pot, move it to a more dappled area. See how it fares next to a hedge (less wind, more shade), or sun only until 11 - you might not like the emplacement, but this would be as an experiment.

    Arthur - you seem to live in Switzerland. I don't know about your area, but we had three exceptionally hot summers, and, with the temperature changes we are experiencing, I am more and more thinking of planting in groups, meaning place trees more and less heat resistant trees together, provide shade, and so forth.
    All best,
    Schusch
     
  6. Arthur

    Arthur Member

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    Hi Schusch
    I am very grateful for your information and advice. The Beni Otake we talk about is only one of three Acer palmatum on the rather large terace of our penthouse. So, exposure to partially strong (and cold) wind is an issue as well.

    I am losing a 'Ariadne' to what two gardeners diagnosed as verticillium infected. For the second year new leaves grew in spring but then on one branch after another the leaves wilt and dry up. Hard pruning left a cripple (still in his large pot) and the end seems near. Whenever I cut a dead branch I make sure that my secateur is sterilised (using a disinfectant spray) after each cut. This pot is in the shade and is well sheltered from winds and yet...........Can you offer some comment on this tree?

    A 'Shigitatsu Sawa' positioned smack in the middle of the terace and thus exposed to sun from morning to evening is doing quite alright. Of course it gets the benefit of sunshades (when used).
    I would much appreciate some comments from you regarding fertilizer for Acer palmatum in pots.

    I do indeed live in the eastern part of Switzerland. This summer we had very hot weather - always around 32 - 34 centigrades for 4 weeks. Watering was done carefully - checking soil humidity before with a finger deep feeling. The last 2 weeks we had a cold spell - temperatures falling to around 12-14 centigrades.
    If I was a plant on my terace I might be annoyed too and react to such stress in likely manner! If only the trees could talk and tell me what they need!

    I am inclined to experiment with the shade issue although there are limited positions to chose from.

    Carpe Diem!
    Arthur
     
  7. schusch

    schusch Active Member Maple Society 10 Years

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    Arthur -

    if you have plants on a large terrasse, my idea about planting trees nearby is, of course, less feasable (...) - but even in gardens, and larger green areas, people have to think about providing shelter from sun, and wind, depending, and there are methods, 'walls' - other plants, or different types of contructions.

    The verticillium issue, and, in general, the diseases that kill so many japanese maples, is the biggest problem you face. There is no way to minimize this issue - if you want to keep maples around you, you will have to familiarize yourself with this sorry aspect. The maples you buy are often not 'clean' - meaning, even if they do not die on you immediately, stress (drought, sun, cold, too much moisture, etc) can weaken the tree and the disease that it carries can finish off the tree. (Sorry in case you are a medical professional, for being totally imprecise ;)

    Here are some pointers: 1. look at the 'bark related issues' thread, posted at the beginning of this forum, to get a first impression - and take a look at what MJH and Mr Shep have to say about this issue. http://www.botanicalgarden.ubc.ca/forums/showthread.php?t=8751

    2. Then here is a discussion about fertilization: http://www.botanicalgarden.ubc.ca/forums/showthread.php?t=11766&highlight=two+year+old+grafts
    MJH and Mr Shep - in particular - make the point that fertilization practices and disease in maples, are related. In short, more fertilization, especially more nitrogen, does not make for a healthier tree. There are also recommendations about fertilizing in the fall, for instance - using 0-10-10 + Ca, micronutrients, etc - especially in containers - and not much until the trees are about 5 years old. I am giving you the links to threads I participated in, since this is where I learned a lot, but there is more info on this forum by people with good experience- there is a longer thread on fertilization, as well. Look only at recent threads and you see people in both North America and Europe are struggling with these issues, once summer comes along.

    I have two strategies for coping: one is improving the cultural conditions for my maples (in your case, and mine, keep working on the potting mix, fertilization and watering practices, until you find the appropriate formula), the other has to do with which trees to buy, and from whom: most practical is of course taking a good look at a tree you want to buy - are there tell tale signs of disease already on the bark? If you find an older tree that looks fine you have a bigger chance of it surviving longer.

    These are of course beautiful trees, and I hope the disease factor does not discourage you too much. We're all in the same boat. (Maples aren't really 'fragile' , either - and other trees struggle often with other issues - look only at the disease - or insect infestation - that is affecting all the chestnut trees in Europe these last few years, pretty obvious if you walk around German, Dutch or French cities. Should we avoid planting chestnut trees?) Unfortunately, none of the books available on maples - although these books are admirable in other ways - say enough about how to grow maples in relation to the question of diseases, and other cultural factors - a result of wanting to spend most pages with the exceptional colors, etc? The upside is that you have dedicated maple growers in Europe, and you can find good quality trees. You also have people who have a lot of experience with maples, so keep reading through these pages.
    All best,
    Schusch
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2006
  8. Arthur

    Arthur Member

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    Hi Schusch
    Thank you very much for all the advice.
    It still makes me sad to see such a beautiful tree succumb to an unseen, insidious enemy. But, as you said, it's part of having these plants around us.
    Take care.
    Arthur
     
  9. Arthur

    Arthur Member

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    To Schusch
    I thought you may like to know the latest regarding the 'Beni Otake' for which you gave me good advice.
    By now most of the leaves are almost completely dried up and any strong wind bares the tree more. Some branches are already totally void of leaves. No autumn colours at all. What a pity. I pin my hope on next spring!
     
  10. schusch

    schusch Active Member Maple Society 10 Years

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    Hi, Arthur -
    thanks for the update. I hope the tree makes it - if so, you will see fall colors next year. If not, I hope you get another one, and try again.
    Cheers.
    Schusch
     

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