Hi all, new to the forums but I have a question regarding a Japanese Laceleaf Maple that was recently transplanted beginning of June in Northern NJ. I understand this was not an ideal time to move this type of tree but due to circumstances beyond my control and sentimental value of the tree I decided to move forward and hired our landscaper to move ut which they did via handigging, moved on a flatbed about 5 miles and replanted with new soil and the bed was raised to help with drainage. The tree itself is about 30 years old and up until a month ago had resided in the same spot. Its been a month since transplant and about 2 weeks ago the leaves started to yellow and die off the tree just on the outer/lower hanging branches but the top of the tree seems to be in good condition so far, save for the dullness of the leaves. I followed the instruction of the landscaper and put a soaker hose around the tree and have watered for approx 6 hours a day for the last month (he stated to do this for 30 days). I did notice recently that there seems to be small dug holes (we have a ton of chipmunks on our property so led to believe its them) so is it possible something is chewing at the roots? The weather has been hot for this time of yr in NJ (around 80-90 with higher humidity) so I have followed his instruction very carefully with the watering but not watering the folliage, only by the roots/trunk. I have not laid down mulch or tended to the tree in any other way other then watering so hoping to get some guidance on what I can do to save this tree as I stated before it does have sentimental value to me. Ive attached a few pictures, any guidance anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Appreciate the info, however at this juncture is there any suggestions anyone may have in how to proceed with care 1 month after transplanting? How thick a layer of mulch should I apply and what type of mulch? How often to water at this point? Thanks.
I would reduced the amount of water to twice a week and perhaps 30 mins each. The plant is going to shock like Patdero1 said and watering for 6hrs /day every day seem to be too much for JM. I learn that JM is rather be a bit on the drought side than have their roots drowned in water.
I would definitely apply mulch under the tree, this will help keep the moisture in and the roots cooler, especially important if you're having that kind of heat. I'd go for 2-3" deep, out a little further than the rootball, and up to, but not against, the trunk. I can't believe they told you to water 6hrs a day, every day for 30 days? That is a LOT of water, I'm surprised the tree isn't swimming by now. I just planted an 8' Seiryu in our courtyard on Friday, and I've only run the soaker hose three times since then; the first was off the rain barrel, so it took longer, about 3hr (much lower water pressure), second time was off the spigot for about 1/2 hr, and this morning off the spigot for about 20 minutes. I will probably water again Thursday or Friday since our temps are very high right now (upper 90s), and continue that pattern for the next few weeks if temps continue to stay high. Atapi, I concur not drowning in water, and an established tree would be fine a little bit drier, but since this is a newly planted tree, I think keeping it a little on the moist side would be better, especially considering the age. :) Moving a tree that established, no matter what time of year, will shock it - there's no getting around that. Add significant overwatering to the picture, and it's no wonder it's starting to drop leaves. Keep a close eye on it, but hopefully after a month or so things will start to improve. How much sun does it receive and when? If it is getting a lot of sun, or sun during the hottest part of the day, is there anyway you can erect some sort of canopy or shade cloth over it? That would help reduce some stress on the tree.
Thanks very much for all this information, to all of you. I would say the majority of the sun it gets is from 11am until about 3pm when the sun and the temps have typically been in the mid 80s and recently slightly dryer but up until now quite humid. I can see if i can erect a canopy as you suggest but I do want some degree of sunlight to hit it? I will be putting down a layer of mulch this week as you suggest, would you recommend cutting down the water to 2-3 times a week and should I stick with the soaker hose or move to just a deep watering each time witht he garden hose? For any dead branches and leaves do you recommend removing those to reduce stress on the tree or leave as is? Thank You again.
You would still want it to get some sun... I think the ideal solution might be a piece of lattice over it, or a piece of 40% shade cloth - both would still let ample light through, just help break it up and in the case of the shade cloth, diffuse it. Our courtyard gets full sun from 9am through early evening in the dead of summer, so it gets HOT. I put a piece of white 40% shade cloth over the courtyard last summer and it was amazing the difference. Still lots of light getting through, but softer, not so intense. If you look online, there are several places you can buy smaller pieces of shade cloth (sorry, I forget where we got ours), for not too bad a price. Our 10' x 12' piece was $60 I think. And it's always re-usable elsewhere. :) I'd stick with the soaker hose, I think it would provide a better, deeper soaking than using a regular garden hose. And yeah, I would go to 2-3 times/week - but maybe only start later in the week, say Friday, since it has been so completely saturated up to now. Don't remove branches yet - they may give new leaves later this summer. But, for leaves that are shriveled but have not yet fallen, you can cut them off at the base of the leaf, leaving the petiole (the little 'stem' that attaches the leaf to the branch). This way, the tree is not expending energy to try and feed that leaf, and is instead directing the energy back into the rest of the tree. Do this a little at a time, not all at once. So, do a branch or two one day, then give it a day or two, then do a couple more, and so on. This way you are not shocking the tree even further. Cutting off the leaf at the petiole helps to stimulate a new bud to form; since the tree is already stressed, you don't want to do too much at once. Good luck!!
Thanks very much for all your guidance, its much appreciated. I will keep you posted on the progress.
