Re: Weeping Cherry Tree I am a TERRIBLE gardener, but I'm trying hard!! Two years ago, I planted a Crape Myrtle, which is indigenous to my area. It died. Last year, I planted a Red Bud, also indigenous to my area. It died, too. [sigh!] I have been wanting a Weeping Cherry ever since I first heard about them, but I could not find one for sale ANYWHERE last year. This year, however, I found and purchased one. Please help me plant it properly to give it the best chance at establishing! I just read all of the post from other readers, and here are my problems/challenges: 1. I thought the tree's roots would like the soil to be loosened and aerated, so I dug a nice, big, deep hole. I didn't know if I should plant the tree and refill it with the same soil, buy some new soil/mulch/compost, or mix the two. Well, now I read that I should not have dug the hole deeper than the pot the tree is currently planted in...that the soil below the tree should be undisturbed. It's already dug, so can I re-fill the hole and tamp down the old soil, then plant the tree on top? 2. I also read that I should not replace the existing soil with compost or any other type of soil, even if my soil is clayish....is that true? 3. I read that I should build a berm around the tree to help retain water...how far from the tree's tiny little trunk should I build the berm? 4. If I'm supposed to plant the tree level with the existing ground (after re-filling in the hole and tamping it??) do I put a mound of mulch on top of that? 5. Finally, and very important, the instructions I read said to remove the soil that is currently around the new tree, free the roots and put the tree into my native soil. Is this correct? I've never heard of removing the soil that's around the tree roots before.....this is a tree that's in a 5 or 10 gallon container of soil from Lowe's. Please help!!! Lynn
Crape myrtles are from Asia, actually, but yes they are very commonly planted in southern areas. This has current planting methods: http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda Chalker-Scott/FactSheets/Planting fact sheet.pdf
Yes, that's the instructions I read, and that's where my questions come from. Can you clarify the questions I asked in relation to the instructions? Lynn
lynn, here is a step-by-step method from the University of Florida Extension Service. It is very good. http://prohort.ifas.ufl.edu/pubs/HC-TreeCare.PDF I have personally never heard of removing the soil from which the tree is grown in. I would think this would cause the very fine absorbing roots to break off with the soil removal, which are important in getting itself established. I think its great you are looking to plant your tree properly.
THANK YOU, Dixie. I've printed it out. I guess I'll just add the soil back into the bottom and tamp that down, and NOT remove the commercial soil around the roots. Lynn
The Florida page says "recent research" shows soil amendments do not help newly planted stock. Actually, this has been known since the 1960s. Don't leave the "commercial soil" around the roots.
"Commercial Soil" as in if container grown the soil it is planted? Like I said, I have never heard that before so I am just trying to understand what that means. Thanks.
Aim for same soil texture all through rooting area. No pockets or zones of different material, except for mulch on top of soil. A horizontal layer, mound or berm of good topsoil on top of existing poor soil (if it is poor) also works.
sorry, still a little confused. for example you have a 10 gallon container grown Little Gem Magnolia. the actual soil it was grown in, in the pot, needs to be removed before going into the planting hole? i understand that when you remove the tree from the pot, if there is excess "potting mix" in the bottom of the container you wouldn't put it in the new planting hole because you want to use existing native backfill that was removed from the hole. but i am asking about the soil where the roots are growing. i am just trying to get clarification. thanks, just trying to understand.
With an item like that I would split the difference and remove part of the container medium, if it came away quickly and easily without the roots drying out while I was working. Magnolias don't like drying of their roots. If you've read all of Chalker-Scott's web page on barerooting at planting note that the method she describes involves using water to get the field soil/potting medium off, the plant is kept quite damp the whole time it is being liberated. If you aren't willing or able to use water to bareroot a large potted specimen you will probably just have to plant it with the rootball intact (or try and split the difference). Note also that barerooting at planting depends on subjects so handled being kept moist after planting as well. The thing is, newly planted stock still in field soil or potting soil that is significantly different in texture from the soil in the new site will also require careful watering. That is one of the main reasons for barerooting at planting - to avoid the problems with keeping recent plantings moist when the soil right around them and the soil beyond that area aren't having water move into and out of them in the same ways. But, it seems barerooting at planting does turn the new plants into cuttings, to a certain extent. Some will need to be watered quite often, maybe even shaded until they root out into the new site. Freshly potted bareroot roses, for instance, with tender new top shoots and roots are apt to droop when planted at this stage, when the potting medium all falls off and exposes the roots anew whether you want it to or not.
oh, I see. that makes sense. i wasn't getting how you would remove the soil, but i get it now. thanks Ron B.
http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda Chalker-Scott/Horticultural Myths_files/Myths/Fragile roots.pdf http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda Chalker-Scott/Horticultural Myths_files/Myths/B&B root ball.pdf Again, I'm not so sure about opening up and whacking away at the roots of a touchy item like a magnolia - especially an evergreen one - but I haven't read any of the research where it was found bare-rooting at transplanting appeared to be an across-the-board superior method. It did seem counter-intuitive to me when planting many years ago to leave roots in the shape they came out of the pot in, in a clot of material that was often quite different from the ground which they were being planted in. But I mostly kept rootballs intact anyway, because that was the tradition. What I try to do to now, to avoid the problem of deformed roots is to avoid purchasing plants so affected in the first place. Warning signs are stakes on kinds of plants that shouldn't be viny and needing to be held up by a stake, and tops that move like they could be easily torn off the roots with some effort. An obvious hint is circling or j-roots on top of the potting medium or rootball, in full view near the crown of the plant. Unfortunately, as Dr. C.-S. relates in her article rootbound stock is very common in nurseries at this time. Some items I am interested in I have never bought because all of the stock I have encountered has been unacceptable. Most items I plant these days do get some kind of treatment aimed at correcting the roots and placing them in the same material throughout the rooting area. Small items in pure potting soil are often barerooted, with the roots spread out. Those with some kinking may need to have stick inserted or a helper to hold them in place while the backfill is put over them.
that does make sense. we usually buy either b & b or grow bag trees that have native soil from somewhere, but this year we had some terrible quality trees. i was very disappointed. here is a picture of a Chinese pistache where the root ball fell completely apart. we were trying to do the right thing by removing burlap and wire, and it just fell to pieces. this picture shows why. it hardly had any roots to hold the soil together and the soil was mounded up nearly 10 inches above the root flare. needless to say, they are giving us a full refund for this tree. that is the key, selecting good quality. it makes a difference on the longevity of the tree.
