Milky spore

Discussion in 'Garden Pest Management and Identification' started by douglas, Jun 6, 2005.

  1. douglas

    douglas Active Member 10 Years

    Messages:
    261
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    princegeorge b.c
    HI all

    I had someone ask me if Milky spore would work on European Cafer. It is Bacillus popillae Ddutky , aparently used for control of Japanese beetle larve.

    I do not think that it is available in Canada yet?

    Where I am , fortunately we do not have to deal with either yet, we have our plates full with the pine beattles.

    Any insights or feedback ?

    Regards Doug
     
  2. fourd

    fourd Active Member 10 Years

    Messages:
    161
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    X-maryland now New Mexico
    The japenese beatle is my #1 enemy and it really makes me sick to think of them, although they are about to invade. Anyways, I put down milky spores one year for control of japanese beatles but I can't say it did any good. The year after I used it the beatle killed half my cherry trees -- they can completely defolage them in no time ... and the guy on the radio said they couldn't do it. yea right. They love grape leaves too. I'll save on the war story and tell you why Milky Spore doesn't work.

    First Japanese beatles are moble and fly to the tender plans they love so much -- Milky spore only deal with the grubs in the ground and the invasion probably isn't comming from your yard. It doesn't do a thing for the beatle! If you kill all your grubs you'll still get beatles. Second, Milky Spore doesn't do much on the grubs either. Why? Milky Spore is a desease that prevents the grub from turning into a beatle. The adult grub has already done it's damage feeding on the roots -- have to feed for the spores to work. So IMO Milky Spores it is a complete waste of timeand money.

    What about Nematodes? Kill grubs of all kinds and ages so IMO is far beter aproach for grub control then Milky Spores.
     
  3. tulip_2006

    tulip_2006 Member

    Messages:
    5
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Rockford, IL
    I just wrote a letter to St. Gabriel Labs after the run around and their lame guarantee. Here is what they offer...I spent over $500 on their product that didn't work. I saw the active grubs in my lawn when I expanded my flowerbeds and riped out sod. I called their emergency number, but didn't receive a call until two days later. They wanted me to send the beetles which was now too late.

    The next project this Fall I found at least 50 beetles, and this time saved them as I was told and sent them as I was instructed to do in a zip lock back with sod and dirt.

    The Director, Richard Vento of the Labs Operation said they had died and told me how I should have sent them in a tub filled with dirt. Do these people get it? It is fraud. I used their product just like instructed and it does not work. I am in a 4-5 zone. The only recourse is if you prove to them with the grubs, and then THEY WILL SEND YOU MORE PRODUCT that doesn't work.

    I will be letting the BBB and the Atty General's Office know that because of them we are having an epidemic of grubs maturing anbd getting our plants. My lawn was spotty brown and I had to thatch 12 bags of dead grass out of it. I will use Grub X for the Bayer Product didn't work all season. Folks it is a rip off, and I am angry. I had grubs fat and feeding on my lawn. The matured beetles devoured my plants too, worst this year than last and I had traps last year. Their claim is 10 years, what about 3 and then they won't you to use a chemical until it starts working.

    Don't buy it! My nursery is not promoting it after they heard what happened to me, they do not live up to any decent guarantee.
     
  4. tulip_2006

    tulip_2006 Member

    Messages:
    5
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Rockford, IL

    Doug I am tulip_2006 read my thread, you don't want to waste your money on milky spore, it is a rip off...
     
  5. Dixie

    Dixie Active Member

    Messages:
    304
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Arkansas, USA
    i have heard that it really needs several years for the milky spore to start working, but by then you have already been devasted by the japanese beetles. the timing of when you apply "kill-a-grub" is essential. you have to apply it twice a year. Once in the late spring, in Arkansas around the end of May to early June, when the grubs have grown into the adult beetles just before they emerge from the soil. the chemical must be watered in as well. applying the granular to a lawn that doesn't get watered in won't work. when the adults to emerge and begin devouring everything in site, you have to be real strict with spraying contact insecticides, when you see them, spray them. I don't like spraying pesticides either, but the damage they can do, completely defoliating a 15 foot Japanese Maple, really requires that you utilize them. I have had great success with the traps. You also have to be aggressive with changing out the bags and keeping the lures fresh. Also, place the traps away from desireable plants. Yes, you will attract your neighbors beetles, but make it a neighborhood wide plan of action. If you have ever experienced these beetles, it is worth doing everything you can. Finally, in late August to September, put down another application of "kill-a-grub" as the adult beetles go back down into the soil to lay their eggs.
     
  6. tulip_2006

    tulip_2006 Member

    Messages:
    5
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Rockford, IL
    Thank you, as we know that Milky Spore is not what it claims. I have been in contact with this company on the phone and I encourage you to call them at 504-672-0866 and/or Fax them a letter 504-672-0052. I have stated my complaints to the stores where I purchased the product and how they handle complaints or the lack of. I sent them the grubs that had devoured my plants and grass when I discovered that the three year application did nothing, and all this time I could have killed them in the larvae stage before they ruined my roses, burning bush, butterfly bush, and Maple tree as they matured into the beetle.

    I appreciated your post, Dixie, because you have to put down two applications even though Grub X states it works all season. They are feeding the most in the Fall...there is nothing more preventive than seeing dead grubs.

    I encourage all to look up BBB's website in VA
    http://www.richmond.bbb.org/ and file a complaint if you feel you have not gotten your money's worth. I know I didn't.

    St. Gabriel's Lab's solution when I had grubs after the required 3 years and 6 applications is to use chemicals if you see grubs. Read their brochure, that is exactly what it says also. I could have saved myself alot of money killing them with chemicals had I not been a sucker to their adds.

    tulip_2006
     
  7. Dixie

    Dixie Active Member

    Messages:
    304
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Arkansas, USA
    That is unfortunate that you decided to go the "natural" route without having to resort to chemicals and it got you no where. Yeah, you would think after three years of applications you would see some sort of positive result. Isn't milky spore crazily expensive? I feel for you, it is a very, very tough battle to win. If you find out any miracle treatments let us all know.
     
  8. tulip_2006

    tulip_2006 Member

    Messages:
    5
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Rockford, IL
    Yes, it is very expensive, for three applications to last 10-20 years wouldn't be expensive, however it didn't work. It cost me $500. I also bought other organic and non chemical items from them, like side walk non-salt in these cardboard tubes, but you have to keep them in your house. So who wants that, for I left them in the garage, and the humidity caused the cardboard to swell and all the non-salt deicer harden. I also tried using their non chemical weed killers. This was a disaster for the solution would clog the spray pump. It was very poorly designed and they at least admitted it enough to send more, that evently didn't work either. Most of the products have ingredients you can by off the shelf, like apple cider vinegar/vinegar.

    As you can tell, I am upset, but I will pass on my complaint to the BBB and to the Atty in VA.

    I hate the beetles and have not understood their purpose in the order of life, so if there is a way to control them I will pass on what I learn, please do the same, Dixie. (PS does this mean you are from the South?).

    Where do you buy Nematodes?

    tulip_2006
     
  9. jimweed

    jimweed Active Member 10 Years

    Messages:
    365
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Aldergrove
    Oh my! Tulip you are a bugger for punishment if ya waste your money on Nematodes next! Has anyone tried Orthene or Cygon, they have contact and systemic properties. I just read up on your beetle friends and I am sure glad we don't seem to have a problem with them here in my part of BC. Just the shear fact that they fly an average of 1-2 miles in there life makes them tough to control as grubs. How does one know who's lawn to treat? Although if you were to treat your lawn for the grubs, Merit applied in mid Aug, just as eggs are being laid should work fine. Merit last for 110 days in the grass roots, soon as the egg hatches [2weeks] into a tiny grub they take a bite of the root and wammy there dead. Just don't try to kill the grub in the spring when its going to be too large for an insecticide to work. I've had 100% results usuing Merit for controlling the European Chaffer Beetle Grubs on over 200 lawns here in BC each year.

    But sounds to me that controlling the adult is the real solution, and thats gotta take a lot of monitoring and spraying with the right product. Difficult, but not impossible. And then what, next year there right back at ya by the sounds of these beetles!

    One might also try spraying Lime Sulphur when the adult is present, first of all it will burn their butts right off your plant, and will leave a residual that may prove to be unattractive for other migrating Beetles. As from what I read they do search around for optimum plant choices. And Lime Sulphur is considered to be organic.

    Just my 2 cents, Jim.
     
  10. tulip_2006

    tulip_2006 Member

    Messages:
    5
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Rockford, IL
    Jimweed, thank you so much. Is lime sulphur available in a product or do you buy it as a product?
    Does Merit have another name, maybe? I live in the US, IL and in the location Zone 4 and neighbors who don't kill and three blocks from a nursery who brings more and more attracktion...they come to my house with a knife and fork in their hands. Please, I would love to talk with you a bit, but I have to be on a plane, leave in 30 mins.

    tulip_2006
     
  11. Dixie

    Dixie Active Member

    Messages:
    304
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Arkansas, USA
    yes, jimweed Orthene is what I have been using. It does get a good kill until the next batch moves in. also like you mentioned they are attracted to certain plants. maybe in areas where they are problems try to steer clear of these:

    hardy hibiscus
    Japanese Maples (a favorite)
    roses
    grapes
    crape myrtle

    They are so crazy! There are only two counties in Arkansas that have them. Two in the northwest corner of the state and the county in the middle of the state where our capital is. I recently moved from the northwest corner down two counties and we don't have them here, yet. Bizarre.
     

Share This Page