Cedar Hedges

Discussion in 'HortForum' started by VMT, Jan 27, 2006.

  1. VMT

    VMT Member

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    What is the life-expectancy of a cedar hedge? Also, what is required to ensure the hedge is healthy? Thanks to all.

    Veronica
     
  2. treelover3

    treelover3 Active Member

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    If by "cedar", you mean Thuja occidentalis; well, Thuja can live for a thousand years, so I would guess that the hedge could be around for quite a while. (:o)

    If you trim your hedge, make sure the base of the hedge is wider than the top so that sunlight can get to all parts of the hedge. If you allow the top to become wider than the base, the shaded portion of the base will start to die out and become very thin.
    Good luck,
    Mike
     
  3. Michael F

    Michael F Paragon of Plants Forums Moderator 10 Years

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    Cedrus doesn't make a good hedge, and wouldn't last long in zone 5 anyway
     
  4. Ron B

    Ron B Paragon of Plants 10 Years

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    Clipped deodar can make a lovely surface. W. Frederick suggested it as a backdrop for Oxydendrum arboreum in his book 100 GREAT GARDEN PLANTS.
     
  5. GreenGoose

    GreenGoose Active Member

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    Ottawa is zone 3 with frequent -40 degrees for weeks ata time. Hardiness must be an issue there for thuja occ.
    For some info on possible cultivars see: http://res2.agr.ca/Stjean/publication/resume9900/richer4_e.htm

    Other then hardiness, moisture is important so put a pot of peat moss in the hole when planting, feeding might be limited to a 'finisher' in midsummer to avoid tender growth developing and a spray of summer oil soaking the tree to the main stem to control mites and other insects might be needed mid july.
    in my opinion
     
  6. Newt

    Newt Well-Known Member 10 Years

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    I would not add peat moss to a planting bed, no less a planting hole. Once dry, peat is difficult to rewet and has little nutritive value compared to something like compost. If you want to improve the texture of the soil I'd add compost. It's usually best to just plant shrubs and trees in native soil and mulch well, not putting mulch against the trunk.
    http://www.rbgkew.org.uk/ksheets/peat.html#help
    http://www.wildlifetrust.org.uk/facts/peat.htm

    Pruning hedges the first 6 years.
    http://www.gardengatemagazine.com/extras/51hedges.php

    Newt
     
  7. GreenGoose

    GreenGoose Active Member

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    Dry peat moss only exists after it has been dried by producers for shipping purposes. When added to a planting bed or a planting hole it retains the moisture that is added. The use of peat is a great benefit in reducing stress on cedars during dry periods, especially in the first year.

    BTW, the second URL you referenced is labelled facts but consists entirely of opinions.
     
  8. Newt

    Newt Well-Known Member 10 Years

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    Potting soil is peat based. Ever see what happens once that dries out and you add water? The water sits on top for a long time. During drought conditions the same can happen in the soil.

    They may be opinions to you, but considering their source I take them to heart. Maybe this site would be better.
    http://www.foe.co.uk/campaigns/biodiversity/press_for_change/mp/

    Newt
     
  9. Debra Dunaway

    Debra Dunaway Active Member

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    I've personally had no problems with using peat moss as a soil additive. However, I have found that to avoid the "dry" problem it has to be thoroughly incorporated into your soil with most of it under the surface. It's the same as when you bury those peat pots and have some of the rim sticking up out of the surface. It acts like a wick drawing moisture up out of the soil. If it's buried and incorporated it has amazing water rententive abilities and can be a very valuable additive. Good Luck!
     

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