Question on apple seedlings

Discussion in 'Fruit and Nut Trees' started by Spirros, Jan 15, 2007.

  1. Applenut

    Applenut Active Member

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    Globalist:

    You are correct. Both are lightweight and volcanic in nature. We use both in our arid ground that never freezes or is soggy, but perlite is a much better choice for colder climates. It is nice for a change to spend a few bucks on something and get this huge bag in return. Just don't try to mix it in on a windy day!
     
  2. Spirros

    Spirros Member

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    Alright, sounds good! I didnt know that I should prune it in the summer though - thats an interesting bit of information. Alright, cool. I just went to Lowes today actually and got some stuff for other things Ill be growing this summer and I got some sand and perlite - all Ill really need for now concerning the trees that are already growing.

    Ive heard that vermiculite is actually bad from some posts in the forums. That it has asbestos in it and "no reputable garden nursery will use or sell it" - is that true?

    Thanks for the tips on fertilizing it though. Sounds like this a pretty low maintenence plant in regards to feeding then - besides the pruning of course. Ive been wondering what shape Ill finally make it. Ive thought of the espalier step over? If I were to put it in the ground I mean. Any tips on how to do that?

    Also, what do you think of soiless potting mix? Whats so great about it?
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2007
  3. globalist1789

    globalist1789 Active Member

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    I've hear some of that about vermiculite too, but you personally don't believe anything about asbestos in it.

    You won't need to prune your trees for several years, so just enjoy its growth.

    Soil less mix is one that doen't contain actual soil (ie dirt). Mostly peat based if you by it, but the mix of bark and perlite is also soiless. The idea is that soil in a container, because it is removed from the ground where other roots, bugs, worms, molds, etc compacts down into a hard brick and/or muck depending on the water content at the time.

    If I were growing your tree it would be in a 1:2 perlite to bark mixture. Repot every couple of years and feed it with a half dose of ballanced slow release plant food. Simple as that.
     
  4. Spirros

    Spirros Member

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    Alright cool, I didnt want to have to start pruning it just yet. Thanks for all the advice on what to do with it.
     
  5. biggam

    biggam Active Member

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    If acclimated to decreasing temperatures over several weeks, apple tree roots can withstand -6°C without injury. It may be possible to overwinter potted trees by placing them against the side of a house and burying the pots with mulch, maybe using fallen autumn leaves as long as they will not blow away. Pack around and pile on the leaves when they are available, then be prepared to add some mulch after some settling and rain, maybe early November. I overwintered two small potted blueberries similarly last winter. Some sort of bark guard should also be used as a precaution against rodents in the winter.
    This method of growing apples would work best with a hardy dwarfing rootstock such as Bud 9. It is hard to say what it would take and how long until a given seedling tree would produce fruit in the confines of a pot, though it is certainly possible. I have seen a picture of a bonsai Mountain Ash that had fruit.
    I would also recommend doing some research on fire blight disease. This is a concern in the Midwest, and should be considered in the timing of summer pruning (for example: you wish to prune about the end of June, so you should check the weather forecast and do it the morning of a cool, dry day; perhaps also take the precaution of sanitizing your pruners between cuts/trees with a bleach solution.)
    Best of fortune to you! There are always more apple seeds to try out if some ill befalls your seedlings. You probably won't have to work as hard as Peter Gideon did to grow an apple in Minnesota (I am in the middle of a great book, The Great American Apple Wizard, about his life and times.) You've certainly found some good advise from the contributors in this thread. Cheers!
     
  6. Spirros

    Spirros Member

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    Ah, thanks for the input! Thats certainly good to know. Ill make sure to look into it, thanks!
     
  7. Spirros

    Spirros Member

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    One more thing.

    Three of the apple seedlings that I have came from an apple tree that is located directly next to a crab apple. Is there a high possibility that thats what they could be, and is there any way to determine if they are or arent without waiting for the fruits to come in however many years?
     
  8. biggam

    biggam Active Member

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    The likelyhood that the crabapple is the father (and if the offspring will greatly resemble father crab,) is impossible to estimate. There are many possibilities out of the many seeds produced on that tree. Does the crab bloom at the same time? That would increase the likelihood. A percentage of the seeds could be self-pollinated (the mother tree also provided the pollen). Bees can travel great distances, especially wild ones, so any number of trees within a few miles (or more) radius are potential pollen-donors. You will just have to wait until it fruits to see what you have. One thing you could do is compare leafs from the Haralson, the crab, and your seedlings, and see what similarities or differences there are. That's not going to indicate the fruit type though. Try to keep labels with your various seedlings, so you at least know the mother variety.
     

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