Overwintering gallon pots

Discussion in 'Outdoor Gardening in the Pacific Northwest' started by laughing girl, Sep 11, 2009.

  1. laughing girl

    laughing girl Member

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    Location:
    Haida Gwaii, Canada
    Hi all, I've just purchased many gallon-sized plants (Dogwood, raspberry, ninebark, azalea, spirea, and a few other flowering shrubs). What is the best way to overwinter them now that it's too late to get them in the ground? I'm in Zone 7b.
    Thanks.
     
  2. Dana09

    Dana09 Active Member

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    Location:
    Vancouver Island BC
    Just wondering why it is too late up there? Is it cold already? I live a bit further south on Vancouver Island and we are waiting for the rains so that we can plant some trees etc without worrying about having to water them constantly.

    I overwinter tender things that are not quite hardy enough to have roots above ground in severe cold like fuchsias, callas and potted small trees & shrub starts etc
    by digging a trench in a part of the garden that's available that year and sort of planting all with their pots on except without worrying about the soil fertility etc., only that it not be water logged when snow melts or rain pelts.

    I've never visited your part of the country tho I hear it is magically beautiful!

    D
     
  3. Ron B

    Ron B Paragon of Plants 10 Years

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    Location:
    WA USA (Z8)
    If you are in USDA 7 or equivalent, you can and should plant hardy stock in fall instead of spring. This will be much better off than if kept in small pots for additional months, planted into the less favorable cold and wet soil of spring.

    Plant Installation
    Fall planting is generally best in mild climates; spring plantings require more irrigation.
    Remove existing soil from the roots to prevent soil interface problems.
    Remove all foreign materials – burlap, plastic, tags, etc.
    Orient the plant so the shoot-root interface is at or slightly above the soil surface.
    Prune out dead, damaged, or diseased roots; excessively long roots may be shortened.
    Prune out damaged, diseased or dead material. Do not top prune.
    Place the plant atop the soil mound and spread the roots out evenly.
    Backfill with unamended native soil.
    Water the plant well to help settle the soil; if holes appear, fill with native soil.
    Build a soil berm around the planting hole to increase water retention.
    Add a thick layer of well-drained organic mulch like wood chips, but keep away from trunks.
    Stake only if necessary; stakes should be loose and low (bottom 1/3 of plant) and removed
    after one growing season.
    Fertilize with fish meal or ammonium sulfate. Do not use phosphate-containing fertilizers.
    If needed, use tree shelters or other barriers to keep out herbivores


    http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~linda chalker-scott/FactSheets/Planting fact sheet.pdf
     

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